Reinterpretation Of Changshan

Garment for Tong Tong

The design honors the timeless elegance of the Changshan, a revered traditional Chinese menswear garment. Evoking its refined silhouette, this reinterpretation seamlessly blends heritage with innovation. Vertical seams and discreetly integrated pockets enhance functionality while maintaining modesty. Crafted from high twist wool twill, it offers structural support and a wrinkle free appearance. Through meticulous tailoring methods, the challenge of reimagining the neckline is overcome while ensuring both smooth curves and structural integrity.

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Reinterpretation of Changshan by Tong Tong

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Garment by Tong Tong

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Tong Tong Reinterpretation of Changshan

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Tong Tong Garment

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Unique Properties

While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.

Tags

Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring

Production Technology

A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.

Design Challenge

The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.

Project Duration

This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.

Operation Flow

The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.

Research

Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.

Inspiration

This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.

Image Credits

Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023 Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023

Project Overview

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment has been a Bronze winner in the Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design award category in the year 2023 organized by the prestigious A' Design Award & Competition. The Bronze A' Design Award is given to outstanding designs that showcase a high degree of creativity and practicality. It recognizes the dedication and skill of designers who produce work that stands out for its thoughtful development and innovative use of materials and technology. These designs are acknowledged for their professional execution and potential to influence industry standards positively. Winning this award highlights the designer's ability to blend form and function effectively, offering solutions that enhance people's lives and wellbeing.

Bronze Recognition

Tong Tong was recognized with the coveted Bronze A' Design Award in 2024, a testament to excellence of their work Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment.

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