The Withering Flower
Printed Textile for Angela Chiang
The Withering Flower is a celebration of the power of the flower image. The flower is a popular subject written as personification in Chinese literature. In contrast to the blooming flower’s popularity, images of the decaying flower are often associated with jinx and taboos. The collection looks at what shapes a community’s perception on what is sublime and abject. Designed in 100cm to 200cm length of tulle dresses, silkscreen printing on translucent mesh fabrics, the textile technique allows the prints to stay opaque and stretchy on mesh, creating an appearance of prints afloat in the air.
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The Withering Flower by Tsai Jung Chiang
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Printed Textile by Tsai Jung Chiang
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Tsai Jung Chiang The Withering Flower
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Tsai Jung Chiang Printed Textile
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Tsai Jung Chiang Interview
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The Withering Flower Printed Textile Press Releases
For The Withering Flower, we offer press releases in multiple languages, including: English.
The Withering Flower Printed Textile Translations
We ensure The Withering Flower is globally understood with translations available in these languages: Tekstil Cetak ID, Teicstíle GA, Textile Edepụtara Ede IG, Prentað Textíl IS, Il Tessuto Stampato IT, プリントテキスタイル JA, Tekstil Sing Dicithak JV, ಮುದ್ರಿತ ಜವಳಿ KN, Басылған Тоқыма KK, វាយនភ័ណ្ឌដែលបានបោះពុម្ព KM, Icapiro RW, Басма Текстиль KY, 인쇄 된 직물 KO, Tekstîlê Çapkirî KU, Typis Textile LA, Gedréckt Textil LB, ແຜ່ນແພທີ່ພິມ LO, Spausdinta Tekstilė LT, Apdrukāts Tekstils LV, Печатениот Текстил MK, Ny Lamba Soratra Vita Pirinty MG, Tekstil Bercetak MS, അച്ചടിച്ച തുണിത്തരങ്ങൾ ML, Tessili Stampat MT, Kakano MI, छापील कापड MR, Хэвлэмэл Нэхмэл MN, मुद्रित कपडा NE, Trykt Tekstil NO, ମୁଦ୍ରିତ ଟେକ୍ସଟାଇଲ୍ OR, ਪ੍ਰਿੰਟਿਡ ਟੈਕਸਟਾਈਲ PA, نساجی چاپی FA, Drukowana Tkanina PL, چاپ شوی ټوکر PS, Têxtil Impresso PT, Material Textil Imprimat RO, Набивной Текстиль RU, پرنٽ ٿيل ڪپڙي جي بناوت SD, O Le Lalagaina Ie SM, Штампани Текстил SR, Tha Aodach Clò-Bhuailte GD, Printed Textile EN, Rakadhindwa Machira SN, මුද්රිත රෙදිපිළි SI, Potlač Textilu SK, Tiskano Tekstil SL, Dhar Daabacan SO, Masela A Hatisitsoeng ST, El Textil Impreso ES, Tekstil Anu Dicitak SU, Vitambaa Vilivyochapishwa SW, Tryckt Textil SV, அச்சிடப்பட்ட ஜவுளி TA, ముద్రిత వస్త్రం TE, Матои Чопшуда TG, สิ่งทอพิมพ์ TH, Çap Edilen Dokma TK, Ang Naka-Print Na Tela TL, Baskılı Tekstil TR, Басылган Текстиль TT, بېسىپ چىقىرىلغان توقۇمىچىلىق UG, Друкований Текстиль UK, طباعت شدہ ٹیکسٹائل UR, Bosma To'qimachilik UZ, Dệt In VI, Tecstilau CY, Printe Tekstyl FY, Impahla Eprintiweyo XH, געדרוקט טעקסטיל YI, Aṣọ YO, Indwangu Ephrintiwe ZU, 印花紡織品 ZY, Ang Gipintal Nga Tela CEB, ʻo Ke Kakano I Paʻi HAW, Cov Luam Tawm Textile HMN, Gedrukte Tekstiel AF, Tekstili I Shtypur SQ, የታተመ የጨርቃ ጨርቅ AM, النسيج المطبوع AR, Տպագիր Տեքստիլը HY, Çap Toxuculuq AZ, Inprimatutako Ehungintza EU, Друкаваны Тэкстыль BE, প্রিন্টেড টেক্সটাইল BN, Tiskani Tekstil BS, Печатаният Текстил BG, ပုံနှိပ်အထည်အလိပ် MY, El Tèxtil Imprès CA, Zovala Zosindikizidwa NY, 印花纺织品 ZH, Tessuti Stampati CO, Tiskani Tekstil HR, Tištěný Textil CS, Trykt Tekstil DA, Bedrukt Textiel NL, Presita Tekstilo EO, Trükitud Tekstiil ET, Painettu Tekstiili FI, Le Textile Imprimé FR, O Téxtil Impreso GL, ნაბეჭდი ტექსტილი KA, Bedrucktes Textil DE, Το Τυπωμένο Κλωστοϋφαντουργικό Προϊόν EL, છાપેલ કાપડ GU, Twal Enprime HT, Kwafin Yadudduka HA, טקסטיל מודפס HE, मुद्रित कपड़ा HI, A Nyomtatott Textil HU.
The Withering Flower Printed Textile Media Articles
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Unique Properties
The Withering Flower collection developed a series of silk screen printed fabrics and dresses. Each dress is length 2 meters long of sheer nets, composed of flower motifs with specific meaning according to its symbolism in Chinese literature. The textile printing technique enabled the binders to stay opaque, flexible, and waterproof on stretchy yet see-through nets, creating an illusion of prints floating in the air as well as tattoos on the skin when the dress is worn against the body.
Tags
Textile, Fashion, Fabric, Flower, Screen Printing, Innovative Textile, Central Saint Martins,
Production Technology
Silk screen printing on stretchy and see-through nets. By specific mixture of textile binder ratios to achieve the stickiness and opaqueness that the prints would secure onto the fabric surface. After silk screen printing, the fabrics are sent into baking and steaming for colour vibrancy as well as further locking the binders onto the fabrics.
Design Challenge
The research challenge appeared when I started reading Chinese literature classics, yet to organize the literary references in order to strengthen the point in the withering flower as an abject. Yet we know the decaying things meant bad luck in fengshui, but why? The misfortune and dead are an avoided subject which I was taught since childhood. But what is shaping my instinctive judgement that withering matters repel us? Is it the knowledge passed down from my parents, or their parents, or the ancestors before them? Since when and how are our immediate responses to certain subjects are formed? Is the common sense formed in generation of cultures, through written records, spoken languages, families' upbringings that the idea of death equals taboo. The design and execution challenge is the most struggling during the making of the textiles. Getting the right ratio for the print binder has failed several times, the paste was either too light to stay on top of the fabrics, or too heavy that the fabrics became sticky and unwearable. After many efforts on print binder ratio testing, steaming temperature experiments, baking process, and checking washability, finally came out an adequate measure that securely locked the opaque print on see-through net fabrics, and at the same time retained the glossy appearance, flexibility, waterproof qualities.
Project Duration
The project started in January 2016 in London UK, and finished in April 2016. It was exhibited at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design as my graduation collection show for BA Degree in Fashion Design.
Operation Flow
The collection's hand printed textiles are stretchy, waterproof, and remained opaque on sheer net fabrics, creating an illusion of glossy stickers floating in the air. Unlike digital sublimation printing on sheer fabrics whereas the patterns are blended into the material yet making them semi-see through, this textile collection developed a screen printing technique to keep the opaqueness and vibrancy of the prints staying securely on top of the fabric surface.
Research
The research for The Withering Flower collection began with studying the Chinese Literature classic, The Dream of the Red Chamber, a novel by Cao Xueqin, originally published in 1791 in China, later adapted and translated to English in 1987. My research on the flower image, especially the symbolic decaying flower image in Oriental settings further developed from studying the female protagonist's epiphany, whereas the character sings, The Song of the Flower Burial, during chapter 27 in The Dream of the Red Chamber. The fallen and decayed petals beautifully yet melancholically symbolized the female protagonist’s struggle and sorrow in an oppressed feudal aristocrat society. As the flower is a common subject for personification in Chinese literature and poetry, the meaning each flower embodies, or given by the writer and poet, is derived from its cultural and historic values. By first examining flower representation in Chinese cultural settings through literature works, I learnt about the principles of flower symbolism is to primarily promote good luck and well-being. And yet, the heritage-rich knowledge in measuring good fortune resulted in the study of fengshui, and it still retains its significant influence over Asian countries. There is a myth in Chinese tradition that people subconsciously desire to surround their presence with things that resemble fortune in literature meanings. Therefore the subject of a decaying flower is perceived as misfortune and taboo, in contrary to the blooming flower's meaning in longevity and prosperity. Another example, in Chinese culture the white chrysanthemum is the flower for funeral, and would be considered as a jinx if given on a normal occasion. The number 4 has the same pronunciation as death, and is avoided at hotel and apartment's unit number, even hospital would exclude the fourth floor at flooring plan, yet skipping from third floor directly to fifth floor at building indicator maps. The number 4 is as well a bad-luck number at giving out gifts, flowers, or the amount of red envelope money at Chinese new year. The dead flower on the body leads to taboos about mortality and loss, as even the slightest sight of a vase of decaying flower is seen as an abject, and to be avoided in Chinese culture and custom. The dilemma I experienced around the cultural responses over the withering flower inspired me to analyze the traditions and paradigms that are shaping our aesthetics.
Inspiration
The Withering Flower collection is inspired by the power of the flower image, its impact both visually and symbolically in Oriental setting. From the flower’s precise metaphor in classical Chinese literature, The Dream of the Red Chamber, which simultaneously reflects the women living in a feudal society in the stories; to the extend of how the flowers are interpreted in fengshui as well as gifting etiquette, I was vividly drawn to the Oriental world of defining the flower visuals.
Image Credits
Image #1: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016. Image #2: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016. Image #3: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016.
Project Overview
The Withering Flower Printed Textile has been a Silver winner in the Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design award category in the year 2019 organized by the prestigious A' Design Award & Competition. The Silver A' Design Award celebrates top-tier designs that embody excellence and innovation. This award acknowledges creations that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also highly functional, reflecting the designer's deep understanding and skill. Silver A' Design Award recipients are recognized for their contribution to raising industry standards and advancing the practice of design. Their work often incorporates original innovations and elicits a strong emotional response, making a notable impact on the improvement of everyday life.
Silver Recognition
Tsai Jung Chiang was recognized with the coveted Silver A' Design Award in 2020, a testament to excellence of their work The Withering Flower Printed Textile.
Tsai Jung Chiang Press Releases
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The Withering Flower: A Unique Printed Textile Collection by Tsai Jung Chiang
Tsai Jung Chiang unveils The Withering Flower collection, a celebration of Oriental floral symbolism, realized through innovative silk screen printing on sheer nets.
Tsai Jung Chiang Newsroom
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